Here’s a rewritten version of your travelogue, in a more friendly and conversational tone. It keeps your experiences and insights intact while making the narration more relatable, as if you’re telling a story to a friend over coffee.

A Soulful Journey to Devi: More Than Just a Trek

Sitting high up in the Himalayas, the Devi shrine looked like something out of a dream—majestic, serene, and just a little surreal. I stood there, exhausted and awestruck, a storm of emotions running through me—from a sense of achievement to a strange feeling of futility. It was hard to put those thoughts into words.

But let me start at the beginning. Reaching Devi isn’t a walk in the park—it’s a 12 km uphill trek, and believe me, it challenges both your body and spirit. A week before the trip, I managed to rope in my colleague-turned-friend and his family to join me. We set off on a springtime adventure in 2023—Delhi to then to , onward to Devi, and finally back to Delhi.

In this post, I’ll share not just the highs and lows of our yatra but also a bunch of practical tips that’ll help if you’re planning a trip yourself.

Why a Pilgrimage?

Truth be told, I’ve never been into pilgrimages. I’m agnostic and have always looked at religion with a sense of detachment. But reading Diana Eck’s book “India: A Sacred Geography” changed something in me. It wasn’t about faith—it was about culture, stories, and the shared energy of millions of people. That inspired me to experience India’s pilgrim routes firsthand.

To me, this trip wasn’t about asking for blessings or fulfilling wishes. It was more of a cultural deep-dive. I wanted to see what faith looks like up close—to observe, absorb, and understand.

A Bit of Background: The Legend of Devi

The temple is located near in Jammu & Kashmir and is now one of India’s most visited shrines. Believe it or not, over 9.4 million people came here in 2023 alone!

The legend goes that a mystic girl named Vaishnavi was chased by a called Nath. After a long pursuit through the hills, she revealed her divine form and beheaded him. The cave where she meditated is now the Devi shrine. Interestingly, visiting Nath’s temple, where his head supposedly fell, is considered essential to complete the yatra.

Our Travel Plan: Delhi to the Himalayas

Our itinerary was tight but exciting:

• Day 0: Overnight train from Delhi tor
• Day 1: Taxi to Lake day trip
• Day 2: sightseeing + travel to night trek to Devi
• Day 3: Early morning darshan + return trek + overnight train back to Delhi

by the way, was lovely—cool weather, peaceful surroundings, and scenic views. The drive to Lake through Top was especially beautiful. I’ll save that story for another time!

The Drama at

After reaching we rested a bit before heading out to get our entry passes. What greeted us? A kilometer-long line at the counter!

Worse still, we found out that online registration alone wasn’t enough—you had to collect the physical pass in person. Some folks with online bookings were turned away due to this confusion. Luckily, after a bit of asking around, we found a counter at

The Trek Begins

We began our trek around 10:15 PM from . Our chosen route (unknowingly) was the older, more popular one via Paduka and

The first stretch to —very symbolic. As we climbed further toward the path got steeper, and navigating around ponies and porters made it a bit chaotic.

One special moment: from a lookout point mid-trek, the night view of under the moonlight was absolutely stunning. A much-needed morale boost!

The McDonald’s

s son, Aarush, was hesitant about the trek—until he saw a YouTube video saying there’s a McDonald’s at . That sealed the deal for him. Throughout the hike, he kept asking how far the McDonald’s was. When we finally got there around midnight, his joy was priceless. kept his promise—burgers and fries at 12:30 AM!

Onward to Bhawan (The Shrine)

We left around 1:30 AM via the route (the newer, cleaner path). It’s less steep and has battery rickshaws too. We didn’t know there were different route options—we just followed the crowd.

The 5 km stretch took us about 3 hours. Reaching Bhawan around 4:30 AM, we were met with a massive queue, easily 1–2 km long. Then came another hiccup—no bags allowed inside the temple, and all the locker rooms were full. So, I volunteered to stay outside with the bags while the others went in.

By the time they returned, it was 6 AM and the gates had closed for morning aarti. I had two choices: wait another two hours or start the descent. Honestly, after a sleepless night, I just didn’t have it in me to wait.

No Darshan, But No Regrets

Sure, I didn’t get to step inside the temple. But did I feel disappointed? Not really. I felt I had already experienced what I came for. The journey—the people, the faith, the challenge—was the reward. I didn’t need to see the goddess to feel the essence of the place.

What I Learned

Honestly, our trip could have been smoother. We underestimated the planning needed for this kind of pilgrimage. If I go again, I’d definitely:

• Research more
• Book facilities well in advance
• Take a pony uphill and walk back down to save energy

But even with all the hiccups, I came back with a new perspective. Watching elderly people trek barefoot, or others moving forward through full-body prostrations, was humbling. You don’t have to share their faith to admire their strength.

Practical Tips for Future Travelers

When to Go

• Best: March–June or October
• Avoid: Monsoons (July–Sept) and extreme winters

How to Get There

• Nearest airport: Jammu (45 km from

Accommodation

• Book well in advance if staying at or Bhawan—only shrine-board rooms available
• Good hotels in Ginger, White Hotels, Niharika Bhawan, Hotel Residency

Trek Options

• Hiking (5-6 uphill, 3-4 down)
• Pony/Palki/Porters available at
• Helicopter Book 60 days in advance
• Battery rickshaws Bhawan): Elderly and needy prioritized

Food Stops

• Pooja
• McDonald’s,
• Bhawan: , Shrine Board eateries

Final Thoughts

This trip may not have gone perfectly, but it gave me something deeper—a look into the strength of human faith and the spiritual energy that draws millions here. I may not be religious, but I’m a seeker. And this yatra, in its own way, moved something within me.

Will I do more pilgrimages? Absolutely. Not for blessings, but for understanding. For stories. For culture. Because even if the gods aren’t always visible, the devotion of the people certainly is.

Let me know if you’d like this edited into a blog format or converted into a travel guide PDF.

Being from a Punjabi family, we all love to offer prayers or follow Mata Devi like daily, and also hear or see a post on or Instagram, that some of our close or distant relative is at Mata Devi in J&K.

Now the thing with Mata Devi Yatra is that you just can’t plan a trip here, its like you will say that lets visit next week, but 99% of the time you will not go or postpone or make reservations for 2 months in future, and all to a saying, that.

And my (invitation) came after 26 years.

I visited Mata Devi shrine back in 1997 when I was in 7th standard and 12 years old. Though my mom, dad, sister did visited in 3-4 years gap, but no me.

But it all changed in 2023, when on my 4th marriage anniversary I finally reach and started our Yatra of Shri Mata Devi, with my 2 sons, wife, mother in law and nephew.

In this post, I have tried to share my experience of planning and completing the Shri Mata Devi Yatra from Delhi, and I hope that it can help you to plan yours. So have a look at Travel Blog.

TRAIN, BATTERY CAR & NIGHT STAY AT DARBAR

So keeping in mind that don’t overthink about anything.

I just make prior reservation for our train tickets, battery car ride from to Bhawan, and vice versa and night stay, like anywhere near as that was the most difficult part.

I didn’t made any reservation for hotels in as the one I saw online were not attractive or overpriced.

Being from a Punjabi family, we all love to offer prayers or follow Mata Devi like daily, and also hear or see a post on or Instagram, that some of our close or distant relative is at Mata Devi in J&K.

Now the thing with Mata Devi Yatra is that you just can’t plan a trip here, its like you will say that lets visit next week, but 99% of the time you will not go or postpone or make reservations for 2 months in future, and all to a saying, that “Mata ka , tab he

And my (invitation) came after 26 years.

I visited Mata Devi shrine back in 1997 when I was in 7th standard and 12 years old. Though my mom, dad, sister did visited in 3-4 years gap, but no me.

But it all changed in 2023, when on my 4th marriage anniversary I finally reach and started our Yatra of Shri Mata Devi, with my 2 sons, wife, mother in law and nephew.

In this post, I have tried to share my experience of planning and completing the Shri Mata Devi Yatra from Delhi, and I hope that it can help you to plan yours. So have a look at this Devi Travel Blog.

TRAIN, BATTERY CAR & NIGHT STAY AT DARBAR

So keeping in mind that don’t overthink about anything.

I just make prior reservation for our train tickets, battery car ride from i to Bhawan, and vice versa and night stay, like anywhere near as that was the most difficult part.

So we decided to catch the train on 17th April night from Delhi to and return on 21st April early morning.

Since I was making the reservation just a month before, all good options were gone, like Shri Shakti AC Express Train, even better than the Bharat.

Usually book their train tickets 2-3 months before the Yatra, and thus I opted for one of the worst train ride I ever had “Jammu Mail“.

My train ridewith seat numbers like 6 & 5 for me and my wife, and 32 and 55 for mother in law & nephew, and it was very difficult to exchange seats as the train was jam packed, and many passengers from sleeper coaches were chasing the TT for seats in any AC coach.

Never the less, the train was just 15 minute late and we reached URN IN 32 HOURS

So we stayed the whole day 2 in (18th April) at a hotel near main bus stop, like 300 maters away, and did some dry fruits shopping, tried some family & relative suggested but favorite one is Ma Restaurant near Sweets) and bought many toys for kids.

THOUGHT: Surprisingly all Yatra destinations in India, especially northern India has so many toys shop, and my son was like “no dinner till I get this car” which is broke in 3 days.

4. Day 3, in 8 hours

So the idea today was to start the Yatra from a by 10 am, by 3-4 pm, catch the 5:30 booked battery car from & reach area by 6 pm. But in realty this happened.

We all got ready by 11 am, had breakfast by 11:30 am, bought rain costs by noon and started the Yatra by 12:15 pm. (Travelling with kids)

Now instead of leaving from to, we opted to go from the new  which is 2 km longer but many suggested us to take this route as there is no horse, palki here, and its not too tough for senior citizens too.

Back in 1997, these was a registration system, which was not that important to have, but now things have changed. You need to get a RFID card (Radio Frequency Identification Card) to start the Yatra and that too on the same date of the Yatra.

Now if you are taking the old route from then you can get the card from Bus Stand, like 10 minute line and if you are opting for start the Yatra from new route, its like you are the only person in the que, as I think, only 100-500 people go from this route per day.

The route till from here is 7 km, 2 km long that the old route, but for me its better as we really had an amazing time with kids, no toys shop :), and there were food courts like every 750 meter -1 km, along with 24 hour Shrine Board Langar hall with an amazing garden (we stopped here on the return trip).

My favorite food courts were  where I had the mango drink and the last shop, Nescafe where we had some sandwich & coffee. And you will also get , CCD, too.

We also hired a local Stroller guy as my younger son is just 10 months old, and both my boys (2nd one is 36 months old) sat in it comfortably.

On route you will not see many but saw many beautiful sites of , a few waterfalls which I believe will give an amazing view in moon soon season, neat washrooms, and also an amazing garden area where we didn’t stopped, also the 24 hour Langar hall.

As we started our Yatra by 12:15, we reached   by 5:45 pm & 15 minute after the battery car booking time, but thanks to the staff as they said that you can go at the next car which will leave at 7 pm.

You can get the ticket of battery car by standing in line but if you book it online you will get priority over other people standing, as your ticket will be issued first. Piece of advice, do get a printout of the ticket.

And finally we sat in the 7:30 pm slot car and reached the by 8 pm, as battery car takes like 20-30 minute. Had dinner at Bhawan which is just next to Battery Car stand. Good food & tea over here and that too at very nominal price.

5. Some amazing time at

So we first checked in at the Bhawan where we have our dormitory bed booked, wanted a room but there are very few here.

Till 1 am, there was huge line to get inside the main Gufa temple, and as per some fellow it took them 2-3 hours to just reach the main temple.

So we decided to rest & reach the main temple at 3-4 am, as its open 24 hour and are only stopped twice in a day at aarti time, which is 6 am to 8 am and 7 pm to 8 pm.

After meeting a few friends near Ram Mandir, we slept by 1 am and woke up by 3, and reached the main Gufa by 3:15 am, and all thanks to Mata Rani, we all got one of the best darshan.

The Pandit ji sitting near t us good time to see the we were also lucky to enter the 2nd (there are total 3) which was not open for public. After the darshan we also look the water from Ganga, just outside the exit gate, and also stand there for 15 mins before coming back to the guest house by 4 or 4:30 am.

On the way back I also noted a new created near Ram Mandir Bhawan which has just open in early 2023 and has rooms too, more like suite room3400, but that too was booked

For me personally, this darshan was amazing as it took me 26 years to get the invitation, and as was very lucky to come with with my 2 boys and wife…6.

So from 5 am to 9-10 am we slept and by 10 am, checkout from Bhawan, which is also the checkout time here.

6. The must visit temple of Baba

No journey to Mata Devi is completed till you haven’t visited the  Baba mandir, which is 2 km walk from

So either you walk for 2 km which is really tough, even after 26 years or take the ropeway ride, for which I saw a 2-3 hour long line.

The ropeway starts at 7 am, & we even thought of skipping it as my return battery car ride was at 3:30 pm. But in our heart we wanted to visit the Baba Temple, as it was first time for both my boys, I have visited the Baba Temple 3 times before in 1997, 95 and 94.

So after a little request to the security guard which was allowing some to skip 80% of the line, my wife able to convince the guard that we are travelling with a 10 month child and its very difficult to stay in a line with him for 2-3 hour.

The ropeway fare is 100 for return trip, and there is no waiting line for coming back as many prefer to walk down or stay some extra time near Baba Temple.

View of

We on the other hand didn’t stayed too long and came back by 2:30 pm after the darshan, and catch the 3:30 pm battery car, & reached 4 pm.

7. Back to

After sitting at for an hour, we decided to again take the new route instead of the old route, as it was raining and then new route has like 80% covered area.

Plus we also had the chance to have the langar at the Shrine board Langar Hall which is 4 km from i. Here its suggested to clean the utensils you have used, and if you can do drop some donation after the meal.

We came down in 3 hours, and reached our hotel by 8:30 pm.

Journey to Devi

Devi, is a 13 Kong and uphill route and most of the people who visit, prefer to walk up the whole way.

I will admit here that at the time I visited Devi, I wasn’t as adventurous as most of the people who visit the place are. Probably now when I go, I would go walking the entire route, but at that point in time, my son was barely four years old. We weren’t sure that we would be able to walk the whole route and hence had decided to opt for the helicopter services.

The ride lasted barely for 7-8 minutes but to be honest was an amazing experience. It is very rarely that we get a chance to sit in a helicopter. Anyway, we landed at which is at an elevation of 6080 ft. Post that, it was a pleasant 2.5 walk till Bhawan (Shrine of Devi) which took us around 45 minutes.

Taking the helicopter ride has its own perks. With the boarding ticket, you will get VIP entry passes to the Bhawan from Gate no. 5.

It was a beautiful and deeply moving journey from Bhawan. The valley below looked beautiful. We felt as if we are one with the crowds, the heady chants of ‘Jai Mata Di’ reverberating everywhere.

Whether old or young, it seemed like the devotees had springs in their feet. Everyone looked happy, no signs of the tiredness or fatigue anywhere on their face. The vibes were infectious and even we could not stop ourselves from shouting ‘Jai Mata Di’ once in a while.

Once we reached , we had to deposit all our belongings at a designated locker(free of charge) in the Cloak Room. There is a good arrangement of bathrooms and toilets where devotees can freshen up before darshan.

It is a short few steps to the Bhawan for Darshan/viewing of the Goddess. There is no statue or idol of the Goddess. Rather, there is a natural rock form in a holy cave in which it said that the Goddess manifests herself in the form of three heads or and the are considered to by Holy and are worshipped.

One very important thing to remember is that the Darshan is suspended during the The ‘Aarti’ of the Goddess, which is performed twice a day, once before the sunrise and then immediately after the sunset so plan your trip accordingly. 

The ‘Aarti’ process is an elaborate and lengthy one. We reached a little bit late and had to wait for more than an hour for the Darshan. The evening Aarti preparation starts at around 5:30 PM so if you are planning for a Darshan at that time, do make it a point to reach before 5:00 PM. And remember, there is very little time to do the Darshan since it is almost always crowded.

Our next stop is the Temple.

Temple

There is a belief that no trip to Devi is complete without paying a visit to the temple of  Nath.

As per Hindu mythology, was a tantric who followed Devi consecutively for nine months in thehills. Finally Devi got angry and took the form of Kali and beheaded the notorious s head.

after that Devi was no ordinary girl, his mistake and sought her forgiveness before dying. The Goddess knew that his intention in attacking her was to attain salvation and she forgave , liberating him from the cycle of reincarnation.

She also granted him a boon that no pilgrimage of Devi would be complete until and unless a devotee visits the Nath temple after the Darshan of the Devi.

The temple is a further two k walk from Bhawan. We walked up till there enjoying the trek. However, it was quite steep. Ponies are available in case you feel too tired. The view of the Bhawan and Katra from the Sunset Point is beautiful.